Archive for July 17th, 2006

The Balinese Calendar

When I first started going to Bali over a couple of decades ago, I immersed myself in the culture as much as possible. I can still recall looking at a Balinese Calendar for the first time and was completely perplexed.

To explain the Balinese Calendar is very hard and I did search the net to find the best way to explain it to you. However, I remembered Bill Dalton’s explanation in his travel guide Bali Handbook was the best I have read. Here is how Bill explains it:

The Balinese year has 210 days, 30 weeks (Wuku) of seven days each, or six months of 35 days each. Every week of the year has its own name, printed in red in the upper row to the left of Wuku. The dates run vertically downwards instead of horizontal as in the Gregorian calendar. Red ink always designates special holidays.

The weeks conform to our counting of the weeks, and Sunday begins the week. Truly an international calendar, the outer left-hand column shows the days of the week in Indonesian, Balinese, English, Japanese, and Chinese. Not only Bali,Hindu religious events but details of events of Indonesia’s other major religions are also indicated.

Inside the boxes are names for days which are based on a different counting system. For example, the top line of each square lists the Muslim month and number. Below the ingkel row are lists of Balinese festival days, coincidental dates, odalan, and special days connected with Galungan and Pagerwesi, with advice on as what to do and what not to do on certain days.

In the right-hand vertical column is a list of auspicious days for certain activities. By glancing at this list, a Balinese can determine the best days for a harvest, toothfiling, cremation, weddings, building a house, opening a restaurant etc.

A 35 year old photograph of the 78 year old creator of the calendar, Ketut Banbang Gede Rawi is pictured in the lower right-hand corner. Bangbang has published this official Balinese calendar since 1950.

There is another calendar system the Balinese use called Pawukon.

www.baliblog.com

Add comment July 17th, 2006

The Crazy Buffalo Temple: Pejeng, Bali


The area between the Pakrisan and Petanu Rivers is sometimes referred to as the ‘Holy Land’.

In this area can be found some of Bali’s archaeological treasures dating as far back as the 9th century - Goa Gadjah, Gunung Kawi and Pura Pusering Jagat to name just a few.

Just south of the village of Pejeng you will find Pura Kebo Edan, sometimes called the ‘Crazy Buffalo’ temple. Although not as well-kept as most temples are, its centrepiece is the four metre high statue, the Pejeng Giant. The huge stone body of a man with a massive phallus stands in the right-hand corner of the temple. Said to possess six penises, his main and rather prominent penis is said to be pierced from front to back.

The statue, with hands on hips, is actually astride a prone female figure said to represent the earth. Most of the figure’s face has been worn away over the years and is mostly hidden.

There are a couple of theories as to the identity of the Pejeng Giant. One is that he is the manifestation of the Hindu deity Siwa, whilst another, he is Bhima the principal character in the Mahabharata.

This temple is very easy to miss as you drive along the road and mainly because it is actually located down a laneway. If you visit the Pura Panataran Sasih where the Moon of Pejeng is, it is only a stone’s throw from there.

www.baliblog.com

Add comment July 17th, 2006

Bali Barat National Park and Marine Reserve: Bali

One of the most spectacular national parks to visit in the Archipelago is the Bali Barat National Park located on the western most tip of the island.

The original Bali Barat Reserve covering some 70,000 hectares in land area, was created in 1941 and its main aim was to protect the Bali Starling and the last of the wild banteng, from which most of the Balinese cattle descend.

Bali is a well-populated island, intensively cultivated and without much natural forest left. Such forests are to found along the watershed at the western end of the island on the slopes of Gunung Sangiang, Gunung Merbuk, Gunung Musi and Gunung Patas, all areas watered by clear streams and traversed by footpaths, often steep but relatively easy walking.

The last of the Starlings live in small groups of two or three in the Acacia shrubs on the north coast of Prapat Agung cape, Bali’s most north-western promontory. The cape is cut off from the rest of the reserve by the main Singaraja-Gilamanuk road as well as by the forestry plantations inland of Teluk Terima.

The Marine reserve includes the cape shores and several sanctuary islands, a haunt for seabirds, in the bay near Gilamanuk but centres mainly on Pulau Menjangan and the excellent coral reefs surrounding it. The good drop-offs on Menjangan’s south side are only surpassed by the particularly superb reefs on its northern shores. The island is a popular spot for locals and tourists wishing to dive for a variety of fish and coral reef exploration. Interestingly, there are no dangerous currents to contend with.

The wildlife consist mostly of sea and shore birds, the most conspicuous being the Brown Boobies and Lesser Frigate birds. There are two colonies of Terns that nest on a sandy cay at the entrance to Teluk Lumpur (also known as Mud Bay) whilst the Frigates and Boobies roost on Pulau Burung. The number of White Starlings left in the wild is unknown and, Hawkesbill Turtles are sighted frequently along the reserve’s north coast.

Despite the starling’s rarity, the Bali Barat is rich in over 160 other species. Yellow-vented Bulbul’s are everywhere as well as White-bellied Swiftlets, Sacred and Javan Kingfishers, and Drongos. On the north coast is a colony of Silvered Leaf Monkeys, Dolphin watching is also a highlight of Bali as large, playful schools thrive off the north coast.

There are a number of good guided treks through Bali Barat’s jungles, though because of the starling’s fragile existence no trekking is permitted on the Prapat peninsula and Menjangan island.

Permits are needed to enter the park and are obtained from the National Park Headquarters located at Cecik. The fee is Rp2,500, but you must be accompanied by a guide and here is where the cost comes in. Some guides can charge as much as Rp250,000 for a two day hike.

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