Archive for August, 2006
Bali has tens of thousands of temples and they come in all sizes. Often the larger temples, or pura, feel like a tourist trap with tour buses and drink stalls lined up or hundreds of meters outside the main gate. One of my favourite temples in Pura Luhur Batukaru in Tabanan. This temple is located on the southern slope of the second highest volcano in Bali and sits in a forested area. The tranquility of Pura Luhur Batukaru combined with the forest gives me a peaceful feeling. Known as the Garden Temple it is located approximately 40 kms NW of Denpasar.
•History of Pura Luhur Batukaru:
Pura Luhur Batukaru is one of the kayangan jagat (directional temples), that protect Bali from evil spirits. Pura Luhur Batukaru protects Bali from the west. There are 9 kayangan jagat altogether and they are always temples that occupy auspicious locations, such as the sides of tall volcanoes or overlooking the ocean. Other kayangan jagat include Pura Besakih and Pura Luhur Uluwatu.
Pura Luhur Batukaru was originally built in the 11th century and was dedicated to the ancestors of the rajas of Tabanan. The temple was destroyed in 1604, but rebuilt in 1959. The most important shrine at Pura Luhur Batukaru is the 7-tiered meru that is in honor of the God of Gunung Batukaru, Mahadewa.
Galungan is the most important ceremony of the year in Bali and during that time people come from far and wide to pray. The holy waters of Pura Luhur Batukaru are used by members of the subak (water course governing body) for ceremonies to the Gods to ensure fertility of the land. If they pay their respects to the Gods controlling the water, they will always get water.
•Getting to Pura Luhur Batukaru:
My ride from Seminyak took me close to Tanah Lot, through the town of Tabanan and north through Penebel. I was actually exploring some small roads and marking them with my GPS. Needing a constant line of sight to the satellites I started off with the thing hooked to the hook on the front of my bike. Later on I moved it to the strap of my bag.
Back on the road that goes from Penebel to Senganan, I stopped at a tiny roadside shop for a teh panas (hot black tea) and a little snack. The lady who owned the shop couldn’t speak a word of English, but became the local celebrity, as the other locals across the street laughed and shouted to her as she tried to get through our transaction. The location of this little place is (08 26.776S 115 07.972E) for those who just have to know.
My little sweet snack and tea cost 2,000rp. I said goodbye and headed off towards the off for Pura Luhur Batukaru, heading north. The trip from Seminyak to Pura Luhur Batukatu took about 1 hour 10 minutes with the short stop.
Heading down the dead end road that leads to Pura Luhur Batukaru I overtook at a tour bus with 4 people in. At the parking lot I was the only visitor, and tying my sarong and sash, headed to the ticket counter to give my donation of 4,000rp. Placing this in the locked box, I passed my helmet to the 2 Balinese guys manning the office. They will lend you sarongs and sashes if you don’t have them.
The first things that strikes me about Pura Luhur Batukaru is the fresh air. You will notice the cooler temperatures coming from Kuta. Riding my motorbike, I hit a band of cooler air about 15 minutes south of the temple. It wasn’t freezing though, just refreshing and silent.
The south side of Gunung Batukaru gets a ton of rain and the ever present cloud cover means a humid climate. The stonework at the temple is covered in moss. I’m no bird expert, but my guidebook says this area is rich in birdlife, ranging from scarlet minivets, grey-headed flycatchers and barbets.
Toilet facilities are provided, but there is no food / drinks.
•Exploring Pura Luhur Batukaru:
Heading inside the outer courtyard, I passed through a candi bentar (split gate). Balinese temples usually have either 2 or 3 courtyards (outer, middle, inner). The jaba (outer courtyard) is the realm of the people, where public dances will take place, the jaba tengah (middle courtyard), is a transition area between the realm of people and the realm of the Gods. Offerings are prepared here and sacred temple gear is stored here. The jeroan (inner courtyard) is the realm of the Gods is the focus of all ritual ceremonies.
All shrines are here including the padmasana in the far right corner. The padmasana is the raised throne where the supreme deity, Sanghyang Widi Wasa, sits, his back towards the most sacred mountain, Gunung Agung. The padmasana is supported on the back of a cosmic turtle, the Bedawang, which carries the universe on its back.
All temple layouts are slightly different, due to the unique sites that each occupy. Puru Luhur Batukaru has a section off to the right towards a watergarden. I walked down from the outer courtyard to this, and along to the area where holy water is gathered. The watergarden was built in honor of Danau (lake) Tamblingan. In the middle of the pond is an island which is off-limits to everyone but the pemankus and pedanda’s (priests) of the temple. The inner courtyard and courtyard areas around the water springs are off limits, as sign in English indicate. I could still peer over the wall and see ceremonial equipment ready for use.
•Where to stay at Pura Luhur Batukaru:
After my trip to Pura Luhur Batukaru, I rode back down towards Wongayagede then hit the small trails. I have previously stayed overnight at the Eco Lodge, which is located on the southern slope of Gunung Batukaru. Wongayagede is located just south of the temple and is only 2kms from the trailhead that leads up the mountain. There is accommodation at Wongayagede, the Prana Dewi. This place offers a good level of comfort, with carefully made bungalows. The other place to stay is 750 meters east along the Wongayagede - Jatiluwih road, called Warung Kaja. Both places have a restaurant, though the rooms at Kaja are cheaper and simpler.
Staying up in the cool fresh air of the mountains will allow you to relax, and settle into a pace of life more like the locals.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 31st, 2006
Most people in Bali speak Indonesian (Bahasa Indonesia) and many speak some English. All Balinese however, speak Balinese (Bahasa Bali). In villages and towns across the island, kids are brought up in the family home speaking Balinese, later learing Indonesian, the national language in school, or while mixing with friends. It is still possible to meet older Balinese people, who do not speak Indonesian.
Balinese has 3 main forms and many variations. The 3 main forms are Ida / Basa alus (high), Ipun / Basa Bali Madia (Middle / Polite and Ia / Basa kasar (low). When addressing another Balinese person, the speaker soon finds out there caste, by the name of the person. If a high caste Balinese encounters a low caste person, the will speak to them in low Balinese (speaking downward), the other person responding in High Balinese (speaking upward). In this day and age, the strict lingusitic observations are confined to the village and the temple. In everyday life people will generally use the rule that they will speak low Balinese to family and fiends, Middle Balinese to strangers, and in the work place, Indonesian is the common language.
The language, Basa Bali (in Balinese), is a member of the Malayo-Austronesian language family. Many visitors to Bali can speak some Indonesian, but few speak Balinese. If you know a few words it will impress the locals for sure.
Balinese words place the stress on the last syllable, whereas in Indonesian, its often on the second last syllable. So ‘Bali’doesn’t sound like ‘Baa-li’(the way I say it), it sounds more like ‘ba-LEE’. Interacting with street vendors and Kuta lcoals, you’ll soon pick up that stress on the last vowel, even when speaking English (’CanNOT, ticKET no GOOOD, must come back tommoRROW.’).
Vowels:
As a general rule for us Anglos is Asia, vowel sounds out here across the board tend to go as follows: A=ah E=egh I=igh O=oh U=oo.
Consonants:
Balinese doesn’t have f,q,v,z, or th. Special pronounciations include b or d in the middle of a word, after another consonant are very faint, eg gambelan (gamelan). Letter C is pronounced as a ch eg. ‘that’s a bencong’(benchong). Letter G is always hard, like ‘g’’in girl. H is silent at the beginning of a word eg. ‘halus’(alus). Letter H sounds strongly in between 2 vowels, eg.’kesugihan’(property) and makes a dead stop at the end of a word, eg. ‘mudah’(cheap). Letter J is like the English pronounciation, except when at the beggining of a word. eg. jagi (will happen), where it sounds like a ‘dy’. Letter K is pronounced as you would expect when located at the front and middle of a word. When located at the end it makes a dead stop eg. nampek (near), almost missing the ‘K’ sound. Letter R is rolled as in latin languages. Ng is pronounced softly eg. Ningrum. In situations where the ‘g’ is followed by a second ‘g’, the second one is pronounced as a hard ‘g’, eg. genggong (Jew’s harp). Ny can be prononced like ‘ny’ in lanyard, eg. nyuh (coconut).
Phew! glad that’s over. Now for some chit-chat.
The original Balinese language, as it was when foreigners first arrived, was wrriten in aksara text, which vagely resembles hindi. The writings were preserved on lontars, dried palmleaves, like the ones on sale in Tenganen. Signs around the island will offer the phrase ‘Matur suksma’ (thank you) in aksara and in romanized text.
People visiting Bali cannot be expected to understand all the linguistic rules regarding Basa Bali and th appropriate time to use kasar (low Balinese) and Alus (high Balinese). For a visitor you’ll probalby go with the kasar, popping in the occasion alus word. That will mean people will understand you. Bear in mind that Balinese themselves may not be so familiar with Alus.
Thank you. Matur suksma.
What’s your name? Sira pesengen ragane?
Where are you going? Lunga kija?
Where have you been? Kija busan?
How are you? Kenken kabare?
How are things? Napa orti?
I’m / everythings fine. Becik becik kemantan.
I. Tiang.
I am sick. Tiang gele.
What is that? Napi punika?
Bad. Corah.
Big. Ageng
Child. Putra (boy), putri (girl).
To come. Rauh, dateng
Delicious. Jaen
To eat. Ngajeng, nunas
Family. Panyanman, pasa metonan
Food. Ajeng-ajengan, tetedan
Friend. Switra
To go. Lunga
Good. Becik
House. Jeroan.
Husband. Rabi.
No. Tan, nente.
Rice. Pantu, beras, ajengan
To sleep. Sirep sare.
Small. Alit.
Wife. Isteri.Timpal
Yes. Inggih, patut.
Here are numbers in Basa Bali from 1 to 10.
1 - Siki, diri
2 - Kalih
3 - Tiga
4 - Pat
5 - Lima
6 - Nem, enem
7 - Pitu
8 - Kutus
9 - Sia
10 - Dasa
Here are some sentences in Basa Bali.
Bapa bisa basa Bali? Do you know the Balinese language?
Sira wasten jerone? What’s your name?
Adan titiange madan Nick-inggih. Sira wasten bapane? My name is Nick, indeed. What is your name?
Tiang Barrie. I (am) Barrie.
Nick uli negara dija? Nick is from which country?
Tiang uli negara England, inggih. I (am)from England, indeed.
Mara teka uli dija? (You) just came from where?
Tiang mara teka uli Ubud. I just came from Ubud.
Bapa suba makurenan? Are you already married?
Inggih. Tiang suba nganten. Yes. I am already married.
Kurenan bapane dija jani? Where is your wife now?
Ia jani di Ubud, di losman. She is now in Ubud, in the guestthouse.
Akuda bapa ngelah pianak? How many children do you have?
Dadua-abesik luh, abesik muani. Two-one female and one male.
Bapa/Meme lakar lunga kija? Where do you want to go?
Tiang lakar ka airport. I want to go to airport.
Ada ajengan Bali ane tulen? Do you have native Balinese dishes?
Wemten-inggih! We have, indeed!
Ajengan napi sane wenten? Which dishes are they?
Wenten be guling miwah bebek betutu. There is roast pork and steamed duck.
Barrie sering sering ring Bali? Barrie are you oftten in Bali?
Titiang suba ping telu di Bali. This is my third time in Bali.
Nuju dina Pekenan di Ubud. Today its market day in Ubud.
Wenten manas? Do you have pineapple?
Aksama tiang-tusing wenten. Jero kayun biu? Kayun markisa? Pardon me-there are none. Do you want bananas, passion fruit?
Questions & Requests
1. For most questions you can simply raise your voice towards the end of the sentence. eg. Bapa bisa basa Bali. Do you know the Balinese language?
2. You may add the suffix -ke to the frist word in the sentence, which is its ‘topic’or main idea.
eg. Bapake bisa basa Bali? Are you the one who knows Balinese?
3. You may use a question word.
Apa (kasar) napi (alus) what (English)
Nyen - sira - who
Engken - encen - what / which / which one
Ane encen - sane encen - which one
Kuda - adi kuda - how much / how many
Dija - ring dija - where
Kija - lunga kija - where to
Uli dija - saking napi - where from
Nguda - ngudiang - why
Apakrama - punapi awinan - why
Kenken - sapunapi - how
Pidan - ring pidan - when (past)
Bulin pidan - malih pidan - when (future)
Nyen adane - Sira wastane - what’s (your, his, her) name.
Apa orta - napi gatrane - what’s new
Kuda - aji kuda - how much
Apa ento - napi punika - what’s that
Pukul kuda jani - pukul kuda mangkin - what time
Lakar nguda - pacang ngudiang merikat - Why do you want to go there also.
More grammar rules for Basa Bali.
Balinese sentences follow a regular word order, similar to English - subject-verb-object.
eg. Bapa ruah sakeng Kuta. Bapa teka uli Tabanan. (Father comes to Kuta. Father comes from Tabanan).
Possession:
The pronoun or noun after its subject indicates possession. eg Warung tiang (my stall), Barang pak (Your package).
Adjectives:
Adjectives follow a noun. eg. Ada kopi panes? (Do you have hot coffee?) (Lit: There is coffee hot?)
One could go one for ever detailing grammar rules and exceptions. I think this will give you a insight anyway, into how the Balinese language sounds and works. I’ll tell about a thing that happened as I was writing this. Down at La Cabana in Kuta the sun was setting and I was typing away. Paying my bill I let slip a couple of Balinese words, and it was like magic. The wait staff and chefs all stopped what they were doing, looked my way and grinned. One of them continued the conversation, myself trying to remember more Balinese words. It doesn’t take long to get into the local’s consiousness.
Periplus does a handy little pocket guide to Basa Bali (Balinese), entitled ‘Practical Balinese’. Mine cost 29,000rp at Bintang supermarket, has 138 pages and is written by Gunter Spitzing.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 31st, 2006
Singapore has been super humid recently, and yesterday afternoon there was a massive downpour. I was in the Chinese market area at Albert St. & Queen St. in close to the Bugis area.
For visitors to Singapore, I highly recommend this place. Row after row of food stalls, drinks stalls and small circular tables, with hungry locals chatting and enjoying the food. Realising I was the only westerner in the place, I gingerly got in line at a food stall. The owner was busy dishing out food into paper packets, for his customers to take away. I asked for a plate, and ordered white rice, water spinach, teriyaki chicken and a dark vegetable that tasted like sourkraut. The plate was very good and cost only $2.50 Sing (US1.60).
Strolling around I saw soy milk vendors, juice vendors and most surprisingly, sugar cane vendors. The last time I drank sugar cane juice was in India. The lady ground some sticks into the light green liquid and I drank 3 glasses, delicious!
source : www.baliblog.com
August 31st, 2006
My visa ‘agent’ returned to the McDonalds, across from the Orchard Hotel, just after 4pm. It was funny, as there were all these geeky looking white guys, just like myself, sitting around by themselves, sipping a Coke or tea. We all stick out like sore thumbs, nervously waiting for our passports and hoping there haven’t been any screw ups.
When Mr. Wahab arrived I pounced, grabbed by passport and was out on the street, heading for the airport. Basically I had 2 options, take a taxi or subway (SMRT). The taxi would be around $35, the SMRT $2.50. My plane was leaving at 5.55pm, so I figured I could make it no worries.
My $17 refund on the tax for the camera, might have to be sacrificed if I was late. So anyway the rush hour was just kicking in, and I had to walk a way’s to get to the subway station. After changing trains and getting pretty close to the airport, I was 2 stops away from Changi, sitting there with all the other folks going to the airport, the time, 5.20pm. Inside the airport I took the ’skytrain’ to Terminal 1 and got to the Garuda desk. The guy checked me in and said “The plane boards in 1 minute.” I made the plane no worries and actually saw some other expats on visa runs. No chance to cash in my tax refund, but saved on the taxi fare.
source : baliblog.com
August 31st, 2006
Today I noticed many Balinese people in traditional dress and found out it is Purnama, full moon. Last night Ika nd I heard a solo female voice wafting over the wall from the banjar pavillion across from Pura Desa Seminyak (the village temple), and there will be more worshiping tonight.
Usually during Purnama, the village temple will feature special prayers, wayang puppet performances, arja plays, Balinese dancing. Towering offerings called sesajen, are also brought to the temple.
Balinese believe if you bathe in water containing fragrant frangipani flowers, under the light of the full moon, you will enjoy youthfullness and good health. Might be a good time to cruise the streams with a flashlight! Planting fruit bearing trees is encouraged on Purnama. In Bali everything has a place and time.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 30th, 2006
Bali has tens of thousands of temples and they come in all sizes. Often the larger temples, or pura, feel like a tourist trap with tour buses and drink stalls lined up or hundreds of meters outside the main gate. One of my favourite temples in Pura Luhur Batukaru in Tabanan. This temple is located on the southern slope of the second highest volcano in Bali and sits in a forested area. The tranquility of Pura Luhur Batukaru combined with the forest gives me a peaceful feeling. Known as the Garden Temple it is located approximately 40 kms NW of Denpasar.
•History of Pura Luhur Batukaru:
Pura Luhur Batukaru is one of the kayangan jagat (directional temples), that protect Bali from evil spirits. Pura Luhur Batukaru protects Bali from the west. There are 9 kayangan jagat altogether and they are always temples that occupy auspicious locations, such as the sides of tall volcanoes or overlooking the ocean. Other kayangan jagat include Pura Besakih and Pura Luhur Uluwatu.
Pura Luhur Batukaru was originally built in the 11th century and was dedicated to the ancestors of the rajas of Tabanan. The temple was destroyed in 1604, but rebuilt in 1959. The most important shrine at Pura Luhur Batukaru is the 7-tiered meru that is in honor of the God of Gunung Batukaru, Mahadewa.
Galungan is the most important ceremony of the year in Bali and during that time people come from far and wide to pray. The holy waters of Pura Luhur Batukaru are used by members of the subak (water course governing body) for ceremonies to the Gods to ensure fertility of the land. If they pay their respects to the Gods controlling the water, they will always get water.
•Getting to Pura Luhur Batukaru:
My ride from Seminyak took me close to Tanah Lot, through the town of Tabanan and north through Penebel. I was actually exploring some small roads and marking them with my GPS. Needing a constant line of sight to the satellites I started off with the thing hooked to the hook on the front of my bike. Later on I moved it to the strap of my bag.
Back on the road that goes from Penebel to Senganan, I stopped at a tiny roadside shop for a teh panas (hot black tea) and a little snack. The lady who owned the shop couldn’t speak a word of English, but became the local celebrity, as the other locals across the street laughed and shouted to her as she tried to get through our transaction. The location of this little place is (08 26.776S 115 07.972E) for those who just have to know.
My little sweet snack and tea cost 2,000rp. I said goodbye and headed off towards the off for Pura Luhur Batukaru, heading north. The trip from Seminyak to Pura Luhur Batukatu took about 1 hour 10 minutes with the short stop.
Heading down the dead end road that leads to Pura Luhur Batukaru I overtook at a tour bus with 4 people in. At the parking lot I was the only visitor, and tying my sarong and sash, headed to the ticket counter to give my donation of 4,000rp. Placing this in the locked box, I passed my helmet to the 2 Balinese guys manning the office. They will lend you sarongs and sashes if you don’t have them.
The first things that strikes me about Pura Luhur Batukaru is the fresh air. You will notice the cooler temperatures coming from Kuta. Riding my motorbike, I hit a band of cooler air about 15 minutes south of the temple. It wasn’t freezing though, just refreshing and silent.
The south side of Gunung Batukaru gets a ton of rain and the ever present cloud cover means a humid climate. The stonework at the temple is covered in moss. I’m no bird expert, but my guidebook says this area is rich in birdlife, ranging from scarlet minivets, grey-headed flycatchers and barbets.
Toilet facilities are provided, but there is no food / drinks.
•Exploring Pura Luhur Batukaru:
Heading inside the outer courtyard, I passed through a candi bentar (split gate). Balinese temples usually have either 2 or 3 courtyards (outer, middle, inner). The jaba (outer courtyard) is the realm of the people, where public dances will take place, the jaba tengah (middle courtyard), is a transition area between the realm of people and the realm of the Gods. Offerings are prepared here and sacred temple gear is stored here. The jeroan (inner courtyard) is the realm of the Gods is the focus of all ritual ceremonies.
All shrines are here including the padmasana in the far right corner. The padmasana is the raised throne where the supreme deity, Sanghyang Widi Wasa, sits, his back towards the most sacred mountain, Gunung Agung. The padmasana is supported on the back of a cosmic turtle, the Bedawang, which carries the universe on its back.
All temple layouts are slightly different, due to the unique sites that each occupy. Puru Luhur Batukaru has a section off to the right towards a watergarden. I walked down from the outer courtyard to this, and along to the area where holy water is gathered. The watergarden was built in honor of Danau (lake) Tamblingan. In the middle of the pond is an island which is off-limits to everyone but the pemankus and pedanda’s (priests) of the temple. The inner courtyard and courtyard areas around the water springs are off limits, as sign in English indicate. I could still peer over the wall and see ceremonial equipment ready for use.
•Where to stay at Pura Luhur Batukaru:
After my trip to Pura Luhur Batukaru, I rode back down towards Wongayagede then hit the small trails. I have previously stayed overnight at the Eco Lodge, which is located on the southern slope of Gunung Batukaru. Wongayagede is located just south of the temple and is only 2kms from the trailhead that leads up the mountain. There is accommodation at Wongayagede, the Prana Dewi. This place offers a good level of comfort, with carefully made bungalows. The other place to stay is 750 meters east along the Wongayagede - Jatiluwih road, called Warung Kaja. Both places have a restaurant, though the rooms at Kaja are cheaper and simpler.
Staying up in the cool fresh air of the mountains will allow you to relax, and settle into a pace of life more like the locals.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 30th, 2006
Awake at 4am this morning, my taxi arrived at 4.45am. Ika wished me a good journey and said the house will look good after the painters have finished.
Flight out of Bali to Jakarta was on time. I chatted with a German expat I see everyday in Global Xtreme. Isn’t it funny, I see all these people everyday, but don’t know them, guaranteed, I’ll be on a visa run to Singapore with at least one of them. This guy is a Cologne FC fan, so we talked soccer for a few hours.
Our flight from Jakarta to Singapore was delayed by 3 hours. One Aussie ‘went off’ at the Garuda staff in Jakarta. “You wait until 5 minutes before take off, to tell us that the flight is being delayed 3 hours, how f**king incompetant,” he hollered. Not that it would make any difference, the best thing anyone might tell him was , ‘plane coming.’ I have to say that after observing the Sukarno-Hatta terminal layout, I can only conclude it was designed by retards. Here’s what happened. We all checked in at the gate, waited andwere told the flight was late. People started heading back to the duty free / restaurant. Problem is, the X-Ray / ticketing is at the entrance to the gate, not as you board. With people going out, and coming back, and going out again, after already clearing ticketing, it was a ‘lunatic’s birthday party’ trying to figure out who the heck, was actually booking in to board the plane. Once the plane arrived, the staff clearly had no clue as to who was onboard, and had to do a ticket check and head count.
We got to Singapore at 2.20pm, well after the time I could of got my visa in. Smart planning, and I’ll be out of here tommorrow night.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 30th, 2006
Westerners looking to pick up some tech gear gear in Singapore should head on over to Sim Lim Plaza, close to Bugis MRT station in downtown Singapore, for an avalanche of options.
I want to pick up a new camera, and went into this ‘Chinese temple’ of tech captialism’ today. After living in Hong Kong, I’m used to the bullshit aggressive tactic the Chinese use to sell stuff. In one shop I walked in and looked at a rack of Canon cameras, all unmarked. “M“how the hey friend which one you want to buy?” said the clerk. “What are the prices?” I asked “Which one you like?” he said. “All of ‘em.” I said. Agast, he stepped back. “HEY”, I said ck am I supposed to know what stuff is worth if you don’t show the the damn prices?” He whipped out a chart from under a sheet. They try to push you into pointing out a product, then offer a price, then more high pressure tactics. I tell these fuckers where to get off, and right in their face if they need it explained. I’m the customer. If you show me what I want, I’ll buy it. If not, see you later.
One guy tried to do a sneaky thing with the calculator, until I explained how to calculate Sing$, into US$. “No” he said, “this one in US dollars, you have to work here to know which ones.” Not afraid to lay the old bullshit on, these guys.
Anyway, Sim Lim Plaza is a 5 storey joint loaded with camera, laptops and other stuff. Once you make the Jackie Chans realize you aren’t just a dumb tourist, you can actually get a deal. One guy weas very nice and pointed out some delas to me, which I may well go back to besok.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 30th, 2006
Singapore, the Lion rising out of the sea, is to get wi-fi, covering the whole country. I’m in an interent cafe now, price per hour, $3Sing. Speed, very fast.
SingTel is planning an Asian empire and with a small country, it won’t be hard to hook everyone up. Here’s more from ZDNet.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 30th, 2006
How the times have changed in Bali. Go back 15 years and there were 2-3 places to hang out in Legian, if you were an expat. Now we are awash in places and the expat scene is scattered. Longtime Legian restaurant, Glory, has seen it all, and Neil van Alkemade, the creative force behind Glory, recently responded to an article in The Weekend Australian. As well as Balinese cuisine, Glory also caters to a family audience, serving western food. Here’s an enlightening look into one of Bali’s longest serving restaurants.
I am glad that you have drawn attention to Balinese cuisine in your “The Curious Cook” column (”The Weekend Australian”, August 19-20 2006); but you could have added spice to your story by explaining that there are two main varieties of lawar, white and red, the latter being so because of the fresh pig’s blood stirred into the mixture just prior to serving for consumption - sort of like an uncooked black pudding. I have some knowledge of these matters, having written accounts for “The Jakarta Post” in 1984 - 85. My story “Food, glorious food, hot sausage and mustard” (”J.P.”, Sept. 24, 1984) was a devil’s advocate piece arguing that Balinese traditional cuisine could not be presented a la carte, practically or profitably, in a western-style restaurant; hours are spent preparing some of the complex bases - short order cooking does not apply. The following year I commenced a weekly buffet luncheon of Balinese Home Cooking in my restaurant, Glory, in Legian, Bali; by presenting about twenty different dishes the guarantee for the paying customer of “at least twelve” was fulfilled, even though some dishes were quickly finished. “The Bali Post” reported (April 17, 1985) that, since commencing on March 17, 1985, the numbers of customers jumped progressively from 42 to 73 to 91 to, as observed by the reporter on April 7, over 100; customers were lavish in their praise. It should be noted that the customers were overwhelmingly westerners, including many Australians. Glory, to this day, presents this buffet; but it is not a mainstay of the restaurant’s profits, thus substantiating my original argument. It is disappointing that Glory does not get some credit for this pioneering role in presenting Balinese cuisine to the tourist trade. Furthermore, the so-called Balinese cuisine presented at the much hyped establishments of recent times is fusion food; Balinese in name and, certainly, some tastes, but not dishes that any ordinary Balinese would recognize. Again I speak with some authority; I’ve lived the whole of my nearly thiry years in Bali in Balinese households.There is also a sad aspect to the present state of the tourist industry in Bali; the restaurants you have listed in your piece, and many more like them, are nearly all owned by foreigners - their sweeping success in surfing the current wave of elitist dining has brushed aside the businesses of the Balinese owners. Being more concerned with the spiritual than the material, the Balinese have not pursued the making of money to the extent displayed by others. From the 70’s to the 90’s there was an almost idyllic balance between business returns and cultural practices. In the case of restaurants, that translated as good food and service, delightful milieus, and bonds between customers and staff that endure until today - just ask anyone who was lucky enough to have participated in that era. Glory has regulars who are now bringing their grandchildren.Yet BaliEats, a website restaurant guide, commences its “Eating out in Bali” page with the following - “The 1970’s must have been grim. Local warungs [cafes] that even made some minimal attempt of producing food that looked, or tasted, a little bit western when on the plate, became overnight sensations. Featured in many well-known, international, guide books, these establishments are today still, unfortunately, serving up the same poor imitations. Having been highlighted, on the world stage, by famous guide books [some with questionable taste], and having made much money as a result, who can really blame them?” This is largely incorrect and, particularly the final sentiment, grossly unfair. On my first visit in March 1975 I dined (in the full sense of the word) at an excellent Japanese restaurant in Sanur; food, service and ambience were all exquisite - the business did not last because there were simply not enough tourists to sustain that level of presentation. Telaga Naga, an equally good Chinese restaurant survived, partly because it is owned by Hyatt, and to this day is renowned. In Kuta, Poppies was making a name for its romantic garden setting and good fare, and other places of more humble stature served some very good dishes - I can still savour in memory the hot, freshly baked, deep-dish apple pie, dripping with ice-cream, eaten streetside in the long-gone Tropicanna opposite Kuta market. Also in Kuta, Lenny’s and Bali Indah presented Chinese Sezchuan specialities, and Ramayana ran a Balinese night featuring Babi Guling and Balinese dance presentation.
When I bought Glory in 1979 I used my pharmaceutical training to improve the standard of hygiene and discipline, and my experience as a cellarmaster of a wine and food society to introduce a new menu of varied food and drink. I have before me my first menu and see the very first item is rujak; it is now well known but it was an idea before its time and didn’t last long. That very first year I hunted down some local, live turkeys and presented a Thanksgiving Dinner; there weren’t enough American customers, and the turkeys could have been made into boots, so that was another idea commited to history. Similarly, there were not enough customers of a class to appreciate my fish pate (perhaps BaliEats could devote some thought to that aspect) . But my avocado seafood cocktail (now ubiquitous), fish poached in white wine, rich chocolate mousse and many more prevail to this day; most of the tens of thousands of Glory’s customers over the years will attest to our excellence (not all; we’re not perfect). All of this was possible ONLY because of the extraordinary goodwill, effort and perseverance of my Balinese business partner and staff. There have never been any prima donna chefs in our kitchen or flouncy fops waiting on tables! The same principles applied to most small businesses serving the tourist industry in Bali. The very important point is that a great many ordinary Balinese shared in the burgeoning industry and continued to do so as it boomed; cash, previously in very short supply, was repatriated in large amounts to the remote villages for better standards of living and spiritual devotion. It is for all of these reasons that I feel very sad to see the destruction of the tourist industry that we knew in Bali of yore. Glory is now managed by my partner’s eldest son; with his youthful vigour and cruise ship experience he revitalized and modernised the business including a website (www.glorybali.com ; the Balinese Home Cooking is described on the special functions page), The second bomb atrocity of October 2005 shattered the comeback; now, like the majority of similar businesses, he and his staff struggle to greet the few customers with the familiar beaming smiles of the Balinese. No wonder, as Australian tourist arrivals are down some 58% this year to this date. The latest closures this last week have been Tubes and Poco Loco. The lack of Australians is the key factor; the locals are more perplexed by this absence than dancing bikini-clad babes - “Why aren’t they coming back?” they ask me. Perhaps the radio shock-jocks and the biased travel agents in Australia can better answer that question. Indonesian authorities are trumpeting the rise in arrivals from Taiwan and South Korea, but these tourists spend virtually nothing in the streets of Kuta or Sanur. The Aussies, by comparison, spend freely in the bars and restaurants, in the souvenir shops and department stores, and on tours and entertainment. I guess that one Australian is worth ten of the others mentioned to the small businesses of Bali. The tourist industry in Bali became far too reliant on the Australian presence and has suffered grieviously by the abandonment; it will take a long time to redress this imbalance, and other Asian markets are not the answer. It is very heartening to see the announcement of Jetstar’s operations and, in the same issue as your story, Harvey’s new package deals to Bali. But I will be advising my Balinese friends and associates not to get caught again in the trap of dependence upon one prime market and, most emphatically, to assert their inherent rights. Bali belongs to the Balinese; they, their warm hospitality and their unique culture, are the essence of the tourist industry in Bali. These attributes are being swamped by gross over-development so that the bejewelled Island of Ten Thousand Temples is being turned into another Coney Island. Swamp the magic of Bali and all that’s left are the tawdry excrescences of the plastic resorts of Nusa Dua, and the glitzy eateries for the see- and-be-seen, on just another bespoiled tropical island.
source : www.baliblog.com
August 29th, 2006
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