Archive for November 30th, 2006
Galungan is the most important ceremony on the Balinese calendar. Most Balinese people get to go home to their village, to participate in family ceremonies. This morning, I even got an sms from a Balinese friend wishing me health and happiness.
Cafe Seminyak was open this morning, the staff decked out it Balinese traditional outfits. In the Kuta area its pretty even, the places that are open and closed. If you are a tourist in Kuta right now, its just means you’ll have less choice for a day or 2. Kuta Beach was a popular place this afternoon, with foreign and domestic tourists. Right now we’re in a bit of a tourist slump, which will probably continue till Christmas. The thing is, we have perfect weather right now, with reduced winds.Walking along Jl. Benesari I saw kid’s
gamelan troupe, doing their bit to drum up funds. They moved along the street, stopping at the open shops, banging out some music and then leaving a few minutes later. If I were in a gamelan orchestra, I’d play symbols, lighter to carry and more fun that the other instruments. A vendor told me, the going rate was a donation of 5,000rp.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Bali is rich in history and tradition. With various waves of migration from Java, the cultural complexity was amplified. One of the stranger examples of things getting twisted is the caste system, whereby descendents of the masses, merchants, warriors & kings, and priests, are indentified by name.
The stange part is that 90% of the population fall into the lowest caste, called Sudra. They are also known as ‘jaba’ (outsiders), which is weird, because most of the high caste Balinese came from Java. One group of people who add another dimension to this ‘who are the real Balinese?’ question, are the Bali Aga.
The original inhabitants of Bali, the Bali Aga, live a reclusive life in the mountains to the east, the north and central Bali.
It is believed there are several thousand Bali Aga people living in the mountainous regions and they speak their own dialect. The Bali Aga inhabited Bali well before the Majapahit invasion in 1343AD. The Balinese today are actually descendants of the Wong Majapahit who were 15thC migrants from East Java when finally the Majapahit empire fell. There is a distinct indifference between the two, and the Bali Aga ensure it remains this way by their seclusion.
I have always found the Bali Aga to be a fascinating and beautiful people whenever I have visited the villages. Many travellers I have spoken to over the years have found them to be aggressive, and indeed, unwelcoming. If you ever visit Bali, I strongly suggest you take some time to visit one or two of the Bali Aga villages. Below is a brief descripton of a few villages:
TENGANAN: Probably the only Bali Aga village to embrace tourism albeit in a limited capacity being situated only 5 klms inland from Candi Dasa. This 700 year old, walled-in village (where the inhabitants believe they are descended from Gods) is unique in many ways. There are 3 parallel streets with 3 others running east to west.
Tenganan is actually a communal village which prohibits divorce or polygamy. Unlike their counterparts in the mountains, the Bali Aga at Tenganan are more reserved and friendly. This is the only place in the whole of Indonesia where double-ikat cloth is woven on handlooms. Often called ‘Flame cloth’, the colours are striking. There is a 3 day festival held once a year in the village called UDABA SAMBAH and held mid-year usually in the months of Juni/Juli. Well worth checking out!
In the mountains to the north-west of Bali lies Gung Batur. There is located Kintamani, a tourist mecca. However, it is the Bali Aga villages in this region that are the most interesting. Nick and I will be visiting these villages on an upcoming roadtrip, so look forward to Nick’s excellent write-up and great fotos.
TARO: Unfortunately they have plonked an elephant park (tourism induced) near this beautiful small village. Located south-west of Penelokan, Taro has a unique ‘Bale Agung’ or council house, and is the centre of the community’s religious and political life. The council house is the longest one in Bali. Quite a sight!.
There are actually 3 villages in close proximity situated between the mountains Catur and Batur - BATUKAANG, CATUR and SELULUNG. In these villages you will find remains of monuments which are very primitive pre-Hindu, various stone statues, and interestingly, Polynesian styled megalithic pyramids. Be warned though, in these areas the ground underfoot is treacherously slippy and the terrain extremely moist due to the elevation.
TRUNYAN: A stark village void of vegetation, it is believed it was founded around 882-914AD right on the spot where an ancient tree, whose odours were of incense, stood. There is an old temple, Pura Pancering Jagat, which like most temples on Bali stands under a massive Banyan tree. There are many unique buildings within the temple and differ greatly to other Balinese temples. The ‘Bale Agung’ is in fact one of the largest traditional buildings on Bali. Within the temple you can find the largest statue on Bali - Ratu Gede Pancering Jagat. The almost 4 meter high statue is made of clay and stone. It is considered to be very ancient and possess magical powers.
The most interesting aspect (if you can call it that!) in Trunyan is the cemetery. An eerie place full of bones, rotting corpses and skulls. Not believing in cremation, the Bali Aga of Trunyan wrap the dead bodies in white cloth and place them on bamboo racks exposing them to the elements as well as scavengers. It’s quite a bizarre place and not one you would visit after a night on the town!. Seriously though, it is an amazing place.
And lastly, whenever you visit any Bali Aga village, always be respectful and more importantly, there is a certain dress code when entering any temple or village. The Bali Aga villages are absolutely fascinating in every aspect.
(The main body of the this article was provided by Barrie)
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Southern Bali is where 95% of tourists come to and spend their time. The most southerly tip of mainland Bali is the Bukit Peninsula. The Bukit is way behind Kuta / Legian / Seminyak / Sanur as far as development, but is getting popular, with people outside of the surfing industry.
The Bukit is a limestone plateau and the beaches are a pale yellow / white sand. The largest beaches on the Bukit are in
Nusa Dua,
Dreamland has the largest beach on the western side.
One of the best Bali beaches, is at the very southern end of the Bukit. Looking at a map, you ride up the hill from Jimbaran, heading to Uluwatu. Instead of turning west, you keep going stright south, towards Pura Masuka. This temple is tiny and is perched on a clifftop, overlooking the ocean. Directly in front of it is a hiking trail that leads you down to the beach, which is usually empty. The hike takes about 15 minutes.
A French guy told me once that along the coast to the west, is another empty beach. With even less access, you are assured of privacy. The Bukit is only 15 minutes from Kuta, so if Kuta beach isn’t what you’re looking for, get adventurous and check out the Bukit.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Renting a car to explore Bali, is the way to go in my opinion. You have to watch out for yourself though, and my mind goes back to one little fender bender I had back in 2004.
Having rented a car with my friend Donovan, to get down to Uluwatu the day before, it was time to return it. Returning the Peroza on Saturday to the place on Jl. Padma, I gave Donovan a tour of some of the back streets of Legian. “It’s just a maze down here,” he said, “with no thought to planning.”
The car hire people rented all kinds of vehicles, from Suzuki Katanas to Toyota Kijangs. My Peroza is the ‘in between’ vehicle. We made contact with one of the guys from the shop and he checked out the vehicle. My gang (alley) is extremely narrow with tight turns, and I must of touched one side of the rear bumper, against a hard surface. There was an inch long crack in it, although the vehicle itself was several years old. While driving we noticed it was in a pretty bad state, lousy squeaky brakes, pollution city, didn’t idle without stalling. “You damage car so you must pay?” said the guy. “Look it’s a tiny crack and the bumper has scrapes all over.” I said. We checked it out from all angles, and he told me he wanted me to buy a whole new side section for the bumper. “Look there’s no way I’m buying a new bumper.” I said, “I’ll glue it together.” “No, glue no good, you must buy new one.” said the guy again. I paid him 150,000rp for the extra day, and after getting ‘heated’ in the office, told him I’d bring back glue to fix the bumper.
Donovan was planning on renting a Suzuki from the same place, but that was shot once he saw how they work. We started walking down the street towards Jl. Legian, and the guy followed us in the car. “Where are you going?” he said. “To Circle K to get the super glue.” I said.
I ended up riding with him, eventually purchasing a tube of superglue. We glued the crack shut, and it was hard to see the split standing back.
There was no way I was buying a new bumper, ‘beat it out of me’, was my mentality. We ended up on decent terms, but I really hate this ’screw job’ they try to put on you, when something goes wrong. My suggestion for future happenings, don’t panic, stand your ground, try to be polite and offer an alternative solution. I could just see in this guy’s eyes he was hoping for a score.
Tips for renting a car in Bali
•Negotiate, realize there are a ton of places, and you are in a position to choose.
•Check out the car thoroughly before signed their form.
•Test the AC / seats before driving off. I have made the mistake of checking the car for dents, then realizing down the road the AC doesn’t work.
•Walk around the car taking digital photos. I do this and make sure the guy sees me doing it, so we’re on the same page.
•Realize when the car shows up, it will of been drained of fuel, right before. You’ll have to make a stop at a perol station immediately.
•If you are just renting the car for a day, don’t fill up the tank completely. There are no refunds for extra petrol (love how this works!).
•Make sure you have the registration with you.
•Pick up a business card from the rental place, in case of accident / trip extension.
I have found many rental places to be reasonable with time, as far as returning the car. On previous occassions, I have rented a car in the morning and returned it the same day, saving them money. In the same vein, renters have in the past, allowed me to take a car at 6pm on monday, to use on tuesday and return on wednesday morning, charging me for 24 hours. So some people can be cool, you just have to communicate with them.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Renting a car to explore Bali, is the way to go in my opinion. You have to watch out for yourself though, and my mind goes back to one little fender bender I had back in 2004.
Having rented a car with my friend Donovan, to get down to Uluwatu the day before, it was time to return it. Returning the Peroza on Saturday to the place on Jl. Padma, I gave Donovan a tour of some of the back streets of Legian. “It’s just a maze down here,” he said, “with no thought to planning.”
The car hire people rented all kinds of vehicles, from Suzuki Katanas to Toyota Kijangs. My Peroza is the ‘in between’ vehicle. We made contact with one of the guys from the shop and he checked out the vehicle. My gang (alley) is extremely narrow with tight turns, and I must of touched one side of the rear bumper, against a hard surface. There was an inch long crack in it, although the vehicle itself was several years old. While driving we noticed it was in a pretty bad state, lousy squeaky brakes, pollution city, didn’t idle without stalling. “You damage car so you must pay?” said the guy. “Look it’s a tiny crack and the bumper has scrapes all over.” I said. We checked it out from all angles, and he told me he wanted me to buy a whole new side section for the bumper. “Look there’s no way I’m buying a new bumper.” I said, “I’ll glue it together.” “No, glue no good, you must buy new one.” said the guy again. I paid him 150,000rp for the extra day, and after getting ‘heated’ in the office, told him I’d bring back glue to fix the bumper.
Donovan was planning on renting a Suzuki from the same place, but that was shot once he saw how they work. We started walking down the street towards Jl. Legian, and the guy followed us in the car. “Where are you going?” he said. “To Circle K to get the super glue.” I said.
I ended up riding with him, eventually purchasing a tube of superglue. We glued the crack shut, and it was hard to see the split standing back.
There was no way I was buying a new bumper, ‘beat it out of me’, was my mentality. We ended up on decent terms, but I really hate this ’screw job’ they try to put on you, when something goes wrong. My suggestion for future happenings, don’t panic, stand your ground, try to be polite and offer an alternative solution. I could just see in this guy’s eyes he was hoping for a score.
Tips for renting a car in Bali
•Negotiate, realize there are a ton of places, and you are in a position to choose.
•Check out the car thoroughly before signed their form.
•Test the AC / seats before driving off. I have made the mistake of checking the car for dents, then realizing down the road the AC doesn’t work.
•Walk around the car taking digital photos. I do this and make sure the guy sees me doing it, so we’re on the same page.
•Realize when the car shows up, it will of been drained of fuel, right before. You’ll have to make a stop at a perol station immediately.
•If you are just renting the car for a day, don’t fill up the tank completely. There are no refunds for extra petrol (love how this works!).
•Make sure you have the registration with you.
•Pick up a business card from the rental place, in case of accident / trip extension.
I have found many rental places to be reasonable with time, as far as returning the car. On previous occassions, I have rented a car in the morning and returned it the same day, saving them money. In the same vein, renters have in the past, allowed me to take a car at 6pm on monday, to use on tuesday and return on wednesday morning, charging me for 24 hours. So some people can be cool, you just have to communicate with them.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Bali offers an endless array of interesting sights and sounds. My favourite thing to do is cruise around by scooter and find new places, that have that special quality. It can be a shady tree-lined street, a small lane with locals sitting outside, or a local temple appearing out of the rice fields.
‘Bali: Lakes in the Clouds‘, is a trip journal by krissz, detailing his adventures in Bali. He used a Kymco scooter and seemed to enjoy himself.
Renting a scooter to exlpore, or just get around town is simple. There are dozens of places in Kuta, Legian, Semiyak, all pretty much the same, offering daily rates ofr around 40,000-50,000rp. I pay 400,000rp per month, so the longer you rent for the better deal you’ll get. You’ll need an International Driving Licence and make sure the bike is fitted with mirrors (some locals unscrew them). The rental place should provide you with a helmet.
Safe travels.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Southern Bali has a number of foreign consulates located primarily in Sanur and Denpasar. Anyone who has visited embassies and consulates knows what dull sterile places they are.
The one exception to this rule was the British consulate in Sanur which was located in the Cat & Fiddle Pub on Jl. Mertasari. I almost couldn’t believe it when somebody told me that, too good to be true? I thought.
Visiting the place many months ago I met the Honorary British Consul, Mark Wilson and his brother Phil. Checking in with them again, I found that the Cat & Fiddle itself, as well as the British Consulate have moved. The consulate has moved across the Bypass in Sanur, on Jl. Tirta Nadi.
When I arrived at the new Cat & Fiddle, Mark and Phil were sitting around the bar, and I got chatting with them. They told me that the British Embassy in Jakarta had directed him to move the consulate away from the pub for security reasons. The American and Australian Consulates are like fortresses and even though the pub didn’t seem busy it was an easy target for a terrorist. The new location of the pub, means a lot more walk up traffic, so hopefully business will pick up.
While I was sitting at the bar Mark and Phil’s lunch arrived, Mark going for the lamb and cheese salad, and Phil the chicken pie and chips. Hailing from Burnley in Lancashire they still retain a taste for the traditional foods. Mark’s salad is on the menu as ‘ham and cheese salad’, but he told me I could have slices of roast lamb today if I wanted. I did and it was great with lettuce, tomato, cheese, beetroot and boiled potatoes. This was helped along by a couple of cold Guinesses.
We chatted about English football, and I didn’t realize the county of Lancashire had such a history, with many great teams of past a present. I’m a Londoner, so kept that part of my identity in the background, although I did admit to being an Arsenal fan.
After Mark left for work Phil and I chatted and he told me was working out near Sukawati renting villas for Bali Masari Villas. After living in Jakarta for many years Phil made Bali his home 3 years ago.
The Irish music night is Tuesday and starts at 8pm. I have attended several times and it’s a good time. For me it was so much more enjoyable visiting a pub and sipping a beer with the ‘main man’, than lining up behind a bullet proof glass counter.
Cat & Fiddle Pub.
Jl. Camara #36
Sanur
(0361) 282218
British Consulate Bali
Jl. Tirta Nadi
Sanur
Tel: (0361) 270601 Fax: (0361) 287804
email: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id
Office Hours: 0830-1230 Monday to Friday
Cat & Fiddle Pub
•What is it?
An English style pub, serving, a range of beers, draught Guinness, lunch and dinner.
•Where is it?
South of the Bypass in Sanur, on Jl. Camara.
•What makes this place unique?
Cat & Fiddle pub offers an English / Irish atmosphere, English and Irish food, and Irish Music night.
•Admission:
Irish Music night is free.
•Dress code:
Informal
•Who would the Cat & Fiddle Pub be good for?
People who like the pub culture. People who enjoy an Anglo / Irish scene. People who are looking for a friendly place, where you can talk to the boss, and enjoy some live music. Older couples looking for a fun night out.
•Who would the Cat & Fiddle Pub not be good for?
People who want a nightclub scene. People looking for a more trendy scene.
•Driving time from Kuta?
20 minutes
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Australian Michelle Condon, 35, from Port Melbourne, is still in jail in Bali, awaiting her trial for possession of methamphetamine. There are variations of this drug, but all amount to the same thing, addiction.
From what I hear, methamphetamine is produced in large quantities in Burma, Thailand, Philippines and Indonesia. Recently the cops busted a factory 40 kms outside Jakarta. Not being into the nightclub scene, I’m not so exposed to drugs, other than walking around in Seminyak and on the beach. Strikes me,that the average Balinese locals is not interested either. I know there is a drug problem, but its not as if most people are into it.
When I moved to California in the 80’s, everyone and their brother were into something. I’d visit someone’s house and they’d bring stuff out, like offering cookies. Anyway, thank God, Bali isn’t that way. If you want to see a movie that gets into the life a meth addict, check out Spun.
Michelle Condon has been charged with drug possession, a charge which if found guilty of carries a maximum penalty of 5 years in jail. As The Age reports, if she can ‘prove’ (you read between the lines on that one) that she is an addict, and the drugs were for personal use, the court can award a 3 month sentence.
Good luck to Michelle, and let’s hope she doesn’t have to spend long in a Bali jail.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Living on Bali is a dream for many people, but what is it really like for a foreigner? As Bruce Lee would say ‘if you want to learn how to throw punches, ask a man who does it for a living’ (a boxer).
The Bali Expat Forum is one of the best known message boards in Bali, and offers the chance to hear the thoughts, questions and complaints of current expats. Admin for the site is Bert from Holland, who is a very experienced web guy, based in Singaraja. I like Bert’s no nonsense style, when something is shit, he says its shit.
Users sign up with a profile and its possible to view the lsit of latest Topics, and check the number of Replies, and Views the post has. If you liked the post, you can click on Author, to see all the posts they’ve made.
Bali Expat Forum runs on phpBB, which is highly customizable, and is part of a range of strings / forums, operated by Bali Information. Check it out, you might read some interesting conversations.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006
Bali has a wealth of ‘monkey forests’ and a while back, I took a trip to probably the most famous, the Sanggeh Monkey Forest (Bukit Sari).
Getting to Sanggeh Monkey Forest from Kuta, you could take the Sunset Rd to Kerobokan, then head up to Sempidi, Kapal, Mengwi, Abeansemal and then hit Sanggeh. The drive is 21 km from Denpasar, and Sanggeh is NW of Ubud. The parts of the route are on minor roads, so you might have to ask directions, if you run into one of those famous 3 or 4 way junctions, when the map says 2-way.
Close to Sanggeh, you will pass a temple called Pura Dalem Hyangsoka. You might remember from an older article, that each village has 3 temples (Pura Puseh, the temple of origin, Pura Desa, the village temple and the Pura Dalem, temple of the dead). When I visited, there were small groups of women, carrying large bantens of offerings on their heads. These bantens an assortment of fruits and rice cakes. They are built around a central skeleton of the trunk of a young banana tree. During a temple ceremony, offerings are left at the temple for a while, the family who made them, are allowed to take them home and eat the contents.
A lady who owned the road side shop, told me the ceremony was the odalan, and that accounted for the temple ceremonies. An odalan is the anniversary celebration of a temple. The odalan will be held either every 210 days if following the wuku calender or 365 following the saka calender, and lasts for 3 days.
The hope of the community, is that the Gods will come down to Earth and observe the devoted villagers entertaining and worshipping. The procession that I observed was the start to the day’s events, and the offerings was received by the village priest (pemangku), before ceremonies begin.
Sanggeh Monkey Forest is hard to miss, with temple structures close to the street, a parking area across from it. Outside in the parking area, locals try their best to sell t-shirts and drinks, while others get on with making canang (offerings). Admission is 3,000rp, which entitles you to wander around, checking out the forest, the monkeys and the temple. The Balinese believe that Hanuman, the monkey king, tried to kill an enemy called Rawana, by crushing him between the 2 halves of Gunung Meru. A piece of the mountain landed on Earth and the monkeys have been the guardians ever since. The temple was built in the 17th century.
Staff at Sanggeh Monkey Forest, wear co-ordinated Balinese clothing, and one of them followed me around, until I asked him to stop. “I will protect you against aggressive monkeys.” he said. The forest is quite small in area, but has some huge nutmeg trees, which can reach 40m in height. A curving footpath takes you though the forest and around the main footpath again. You can do this walk in 15 minutes.
I did see some small monkeys on the main footpath, but they were not aggressive, neither were the ones in the forest. Guides will tell you to watch your hat and glasses which is a good idea. I took mine off and put them in my bag.
The center piece of Sanggeh Monkey Forest is Pura Bukit Sari, a lovely atmospheric place, which like most of Bali’s temples, is deserted most of the year, apart from the tourists. I am not an expert on temples but did notice one strange thing, 2 kul kul (drum towers). The towers are used to ritually summon members of the banjar, and usually the kul kul tower is placed in the kelod end of the temple.
Visitors are not permitted to enter the candi bentar (split gate) which marks the entrance to the temple. I simply snapped a few shots over the gate. My guide book said that Sanggeh Monkey Forest is best visited late in the afternoon to avoid crowds. I was the only customer at 3pm so I felt special.
The attendants said Sanggeh Monkey Forest opens in the morning at 7am. It closes when there are no more people.
I thought the place was impressive for the size of the trees and the coolness of the temple. The monkeys were rather tame.
Sanggeh Monkey Forest
•What is it?
A large forested piece of land, with a central temple and population of macaque monkeys.
•Where is it?
Located in Sanggeh, a few kilometers NW of Ubud.
•Driving time from Kuta?
1 hour to 90 minutes, deprending on traffic, your navigation skills and how long you spend looking at other stuff.
•Best time to go?
Any time of year, late afternoon.
•Facilities:
Guides, toilets, souvenirs shops across the street, drink / snack shops, parking.
•Admission.
3,000rp
•Who is Sanggeh Monkey Forest good for?
Families, kids, people who enjoy visiting temples, people who want a fun pitstop on a roadtrip.
•Who is Sanggeh Monkey Forest not good for?
People who are not interested in temples, people who do not like monkeys.
•Who is Sanggeh Monkey Forest good for?
Dangers & Annoyances:
Monkeys can occassionally be aggressive, and try to grab personal items such as sunglasses, hats etc.
source : www.baliblog.com
November 30th, 2006