Bali rising: Island paradise stares down terrorism

March 28th, 2008

McClatchy News Service

Bali beckons.In the aftermath of deadly terrorist bombings in 2002 and 2005, Balinese artisans and merchants are eager for the people of the world to rediscover this enchanting island.

Although the U.S. Department of State still warns Americans about traveling in Indonesia, I ventured to Bali for a few days last year with my brothers and my older son.

While worries of a terrorist attack never completely left me, I quickly succumbed to the island’s tropical charms.
We split our time between magnificent beaches of the southwest and the enchanting central mountains. Here are some of the highlights.

NATURAL BEAUTY

A volcanic island in the Indonesian archipelago just south of the equator, Bali is lush and exotic.

Along the coast at a resort in Seminyak, we indulged ourselves by watching the sun set gloriously into the Indian Ocean, the sky turning from blue to orange to crimson.

In the central mountains, we passed spectacular tiered rice paddies. In Ubud, we saw Balinese children swimming gleefully in the river running through the valley nestling our hotel.

We also toured the Mandala Wisata Wenara Wana, or sacred monkey forest sanctuary. Paved walkways took us through a jungle preserve for long-tailed macaques, cute monkeys with a hankering for bananas and little tolerance for close-up photography.

SHOPPING

Everywhere we went was a shopper’s paradise. The exchange rate between the American dollar and the Indonesian rupiah is generous, and the number of stalls and shops was overwhelming. They sell everything from beautiful batik weavings and silver jewelry to flip-flops and other trinkets.

Although prices are fixed at larger stores, bargaining seems to be one of Bali’s national pastimes. The street merchants were the most aggressive in Kuta, following us out of their stalls and pestering us to make offers on T-shirts and necklaces.

The style was much more relaxed in Ubud and surrounding villages, where we watched basket-makers at work in their shops.

CULTURE

Some of the best time I spent was wandering through the villages around Ubud, where I got a close look at the exotic architecture of public buildings and family compounds. The people are mostly Hindu, and incense offerings were placed at thresholds to most homes and shops.

One morning, I encountered scores of children walking to school, all of them in uniform and the girls seemingly all in pigtails.

We were fortunate to hear a couple of performances by gamelan orchestras, a style of Indonesian music that depends heavily on drums, gongs and other percussion instruments. We saw only a portion of traditional Balinese storytelling dance and left wanting to see more.

SAFETY

One of our last stops was at the international memorial to the victims of the Oct. 12, 2002, terrorist bombings in Kuta, which killed 202 people from several countries. Attacks in 2005 at Kuta and Jimbaran beach killed 23 people, including three bombers.

It was sobering experience to see a monument to the victims of despicable violence in such a beautiful place.

The people of Bali are trying to overcome the bombings and bring back tourists. Although security checks at Denpasar airport actually seemed less thorough than what American airports demand, our luggage and our taxi were searched before we could pass through the gate to our resort in Seminyak. At a restaurant in Kuta, security guards ran metal-sensing wands over us before we were escorted to our table.

Many of the merchants and ‘’taksi'’ drivers politely asked where we were from. They were glad and a bit surprised to see Americans back in their shops.

I look forward to the pleasure of returning someday, for their sake and mine.

GOING TO BALI

Bali is an island of incredible mystery, beauty, enchantment, culture and serenity in the southeast Asian archipelago-nation of Indonesia, south of the equator and north of Australia.

Bali’s beaches, volcanoes, lakes, temples and terraced rice fields — combined with its artistic roots and legendary hospitality — have made it one of the most visited places on earth. What you need to know, courtesy of the Bali Tourist Board:

• Geography: Bali is one of 17,508 islands that make up Indonesia. It is 87 miles long by 50 miles deep. Most Balinese live on the southern third of the island. The northeast is the island’s active volcanic region, with both Gunung Agung (Bali’s tallest volcano) and Gunung Batur.

• Population: With 245 million people, Indonesia is the world’s fourth largest country (behind China, India and the United States). Bali has 4 million people and 8 million motorbikes.

• When to go: The dry season (April to September) is when humidity is at its lowest. January and February are usually a period of unrelenting rain. June is often ‘’the golden month'’ — perfect weather and low-to-mid hotel occupancy (and therefore great discounts). Prices go up 10 to 30 percent July to September and during the year-end holiday season.

• Language: Balinese is the everyday language. Bahasa Indonesian is the official language. English is frequently used in commerce.

• Religion: Indonesia is the world’s largest Muslim nation, but Bali is 92 percent Hindu. In Balinese Hinduism, marriage is compulsory.

• Participation in Banjar (the village association) is obligatory.

• Entry requirements: A visa is required for American citizens. Visas valid for three or 30 days can be applied for upon arrival at the airports in Bali and Jakarta.

CUSTOMS

• Indonesia’s Muslim population does not drink alcohol.

• Shoes must be removed when entering a home or places of worship such as mosques and temples. Some mosques provide robes and scarves for female visitors.

• The forefinger is not used to point. Instead, the thumb of the right hand with four fingers folded under is the preferred usage.

• The traditional greeting, or salam, resembles a handshake with both hands but without the grasp. The man offers both hands, lightly touches his friend’s outstretched hands, and then brings his hands to his chest to mean, ‘’I greet you from my heart.'’ The visitor should reciprocate the salam.

Source: http://www.miamiherald.com/

Entry Filed under: Bali Tourism News

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